What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid belongs to the class of hydroxy acids known as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), a group of hydroxy acids renowned for their exfoliating properties. Like other hydroxy acids, it acts as a chemical exfoliant by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed naturally and revealing fresher, smoother skin underneath. This chemical exfoliation gently removes dead cells without the abrasion caused by physical exfoliants, making it effective yet gentle on the skin.

How is glycolic acid different from other hydroxy acids?

When most people talk about hydroxy acids, they often refer to glycolic acid because it’s one of the smallest and most effective AHAs. Unlike beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid, glycolic acid is water-soluble. This means it works on the surface of the skin, making it excellent for treating dullness, rough texture, and uneven skin tone. Because glycolic acid is a small molecule, it penetrates the upper layers of the skin more effectively than some other AHAs, promoting a smoother, brighter complexion. It doesn’t, however, penetrate as deeply into oily pores as BHAs do, so it’s best suited for surface exfoliation rather than deep pore cleansing.

Which ingredients work well with glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid pairs well with other exfoliating ingredients like lactic acid or low-concentration BHAs for multi-level exfoliation. It can sometimes cause mild irritation, especially if you’re new to acids, so soothing ingredients like Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, and Centella Asiatica Extract are excellent partners to help maintain hydration and calm the skin. Since glycolic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, daily use of SPF 30 or higher is crucial.

Who should avoid using glycolic acid?

If you have very sensitive or already irritated skin, glycolic acid might be too strong. Those with conditions like rosacea or eczema should consider alternative exfoliants or consult a dermatologist before adding glycolic acid to their routine. As with any new skincare ingredient, if you’re pregnant or nursing, it’s advisable to consult your doctor before use. 

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